Luxury Goods

Coty has agreed to hand the Gucci Beauty licence back to Kering for $400 million, ending the arrangement earlier than the contract required. Kering's motivation is straightforward in theory: bringing prestige beauty in-house gives the group direct control over a category growing faster than leather goods. In practice, the timing raises questions. Kering has been navigating a difficult period for Gucci's core business, and spending $400 million to accelerate a licence transition is a capital allocation choice that competes directly with investment in the mainline brand. Coty, which collects $400 million in cash, can now redeploy that against its own leverage. Watch Kering's next investor update for how it characterises the beauty segment's contribution: if it leans heavily on beauty growth to offset softness elsewhere in the portfolio, this transaction will read differently in retrospect.

Chanel has bought Charvet, the Place Vendôme shirtmaker that has dressed heads of state since 1838, in a move that extends its control over French luxury craft supply chains rather than its consumer brand. The acquisition follows the same logic as LVMH's ownership of specialist ateliers: vertical integration of irreplaceable savoir-faire before it disappears.

The Australian winemaker announced a strategic review of its underperforming US business, with asset sales and exits from lower-margin labels under consideration.

Britain's poshest grocer just invested £20 million in price cuts averaging 12% across 160 own-label lines, admitting it's losing the battle for cost-conscious middle-class customers. Waitrose has now deployed £50 million across multiple price-cutting campaigns this year, as trade coverage confirms the retailer's struggle against discounters and M&S Food. The moves signal that premium positioning alone no longer works when mortgages cost 6.5%. Even Ocado shoppers have limits.

Cost-cutting can only paper over so many problems. Shiseido's core operating profit jumped 21% while net sales fell 8.5% in Q1, exposing the hollowing out of its business model. Drunk Elephant sales collapsed 65% due to production issues, and the broader China boycott over Fukushima water continues to devastate Asian sales. The company's massive restructuring includes a $46.8 billion US goodwill impairment and "massive" layoffs at Shiseido Americas, yet management still expects a net loss of $330 million for the full year. Shares fell 16% intraday, the worst since 1987. The luxury beauty giant is shrinking its way to profitability while competitors like L'Oréal and Estée Lauder maintain growth. Efficiency gains mean nothing if customers are walking away.

The Advertising Standards Authority's ruling against Skydiamond marks a regulatory win for natural diamond producers fighting lab-grown marketing tactics. The ASA banned phrases like "mined from the sky" and "real diamonds" without explicit synthetic qualifiers, finding consumers could complete purchases without knowing they were buying lab-grown stones. The Natural Diamond Council's successful complaint comes as lab-grown prices have crashed 85% since 2018 while capturing 50% of US engagement ring sales. Separately, the American Gem Trade Association banned lab-grown displays from its trade shows, signalling industry-wide pushback against synthetic competition. Both moves reflect desperation in the natural diamond sector, where rough prices fell 40% since 2022. The regulatory crackdown won't restore pricing power, but it forces transparency in a market built on emotional premium pricing.

Ten months after Milan Fashion Week backlash, Prada has turned cultural controversy into a collaboration. The Italian house launched sandals inspired by traditional Kolhapuri chappals, priced at €750 per pair and produced in Maharashtra and Karnataka in partnership with state-backed bodies as company releases detail. Prada will train 180 artisans over three years through Indian design institutes, with select craftspeople visiting the Prada Group Academy in Italy. The move tests whether luxury brands can monetise cultural heritage respectfully while charging 15 times more than authentic versions. Prada's premium pricing on traditional designs offers a template for other European houses facing scrutiny over appropriation, but success depends on whether Indian consumers buy the collaboration narrative or see it as expensive damage control.

Hermès just suffered its worst single-day drop on record, signalling luxury's invincibility myth is cracking. The €200bn handbag empire that survived every previous downturn is finally feeling the pinch from global uncertainty and war-rattled consumer confidence. When the company that makes €10,000 bags for waiting lists starts wobbling, it's not just about leather goods — it's about the wealth effect unwinding. Rich clients aren't just delaying purchases; they're questioning whether flaunting luxury makes sense when the world feels unstable.